Katherine, Northern Territory – Travel Break

Wednesday 12^th to Friday 14^th June, 2013 – Stay in Katherine, Northern Territory

Having arrived in Katherine at lunchtime yesterday (Tuesday 11^th), we checked into the IBIS Styles (was Four Seasons) Hotel for four nights. While we both love the outdoors and true bush camping, it’s always nice to break our trips up with a few days here and there staying at a nice hotel.

Once checked in and unpacked it’s a great feeling to hit the showers and shed that Northern Australia red dust accumulated while out in the bush and settle in for a nice meal  at ‘Galloping Jacks Steakhouse and Bar’ and a couple of cold beers also help. To date we have covered around 9000km’s and a little time-out is needed to recharge before continuing on the next leg of our adventure.

Over the next couple of days we visited some of the local attractions on offer. No visit to Katherine would be complete without a 30km trip out to Katherine Gorge (Nitmiluk National Park) and the only way to really take in the beautiful surrounding is by air or boat. We recommend the boat tour as it gives you time to take in the surroundings and the guides are very knowledgeable, providing an in-depth commentary from both the Aboriginal perspective and the early explorers.

Julie at Katherine Gorge (Nitmiluk National Park), Katherine, Northern Territory, Australia

Katherine Gorge (Nitmiluk National Park), Katherine, Northern Territory, Australia

Aboriginal rock art – Katherine Gorge (Nitmiluk National Park), Katherine, Northern Territory, Australia

Croc Cage – Katherine Gorge (Nitmiluk National Park), Katherine, Northern Territory, Australia

We also dropped in on the Katherine Museum, which was a treat in gaining an understanding of the history associated with the town and region. Really makes you realise how easy we have things today along with what we readily take for granted.

Greg with Doctor Clyde Fenton’s ‘Flying Doctor’ Gypsy Moth Plane – Katherine Museum, Northern Territory, Australia

Julie at the Katherine Museum, Northern Territory, Australia….Yes open today!

Overland Telegraph Line Display, Katherine Museum, Northern Territory, Australia

It will be an early night tonight as we will be up bright and early to travel north towards Darwin, Northern Territory. We will turn-off just prior to Darwin itself and travel out to our beach house for the week at Dundee Beach and a chance to do a little of both inshore and river fishing.

Thanks for reading our blog and please visit our ‘Photographs’ page for other pics taken along our travels. Comments and questions are always welcome.

All the best,

Greg and Julie

xx

Adventure before Dementia  

Leg 5 – Cooktown, Queensland to Katherine, Northern Territory

Sunday 2^nd June to Wednesday 5^th June, 2013 – Cooktown

Having checked into the Seaview Motel, Cooktown for a few days, this provided a good base for our day trips in and around Cooktown. The motel is ideally positioned adjacent to the river front, with lovely uninterrupted views out across the boat harbour.

Greg with Cooktown’s Cannon, Queensland, Australia

View from Motel Window of Endeavour River, Cooktown, Queensland

We had breakfast each morning at the Cook’s Landing Kiosk, which was right on the water’s edge in Cooktown. Our on-going entertainment included watching water craft of every description cruising past and those arriving/departing from the pontoons attached to the landing. Our host and owner of the Cook’s Landing Kiosk was Bev. Such a lovely person, Bev would always spare us a few minutes on each visit for an update on what was happening in and around Cooktown. The bacon and eggs were best to date on the trip, not to mention the unlimited supply of filtered coffee on tap at no additional cost….a great start to each day in Cooktown.

The lovely Bev, Cook’s Landing Kiosk, Cooktown, Queensland – Absolutely brilliant breakfast!!

View of Sunset from our Motel window, Cooktown, Queensland, Australia

Our day trips included visits to Endeavour and Isabella Waterfalls and also a drive out to Archer Point, though while the views were great; it was extremely windy on our visit. So windy I think there is a proposal in place to start a wind farm there.

During our stay in Cooktown there was the opportunity to complete a couple of running repairs, which included a plug to a punctured tyre and a replacement rear window for the Toyota, which was the unfortunate victim from a stray stone from our camper trailer. As always, great support and communication’s from the Crikey team back in Perth to undertake the logistics of organising the repairs for us. Thanks guys!!

Isabella Falls, north or Cooktown, Queensland, Australia

Excuse the pun, though I’d also like to give ‘Tyredog’ tyre pressure and temperature sensors a plug for doing a good job for us. While there is not much that we could do to avoid picking up a nail in one of the Toyota’s Cooper tyres, the Tyredog ensured that we had amble warning of the puncture to enable us to stop and make the necessary wheel change. A $30.00 professionally fitted plug could have been a $500.00+ new tyre, not to mention a potential new rim. One of the downsides of travelling on dirt roads is that is it very hard to detect tyres losing pressure until it is too late and the damage is done….a good investment for serious off-road/4wd enthusiasts.

Thursday 6^th June, 2013 –Cooktown to Talaroo Hot Springs Turn-off, Queensland

After knocking over a hearty breakfast at the Cook’s Landing Kiosk and saying our goodbye’s to Bev, we headed out of Cooktown travelling south towards Lakeland.

Cooktown had won our hearts and was a definite contender for our short list of retirement destinations. Such a lovely town full of kind hearted and genuine people. It reminded us of Broome in the 70s…..before commercialisation!

At Mount Molloy we took a left turn to head towards Cairns for a brief look at this popular tourist destination. The drive through Mossman and Port Douglas was very picturesque, though as we got closer to Cairns the traffic increased along with built-up areas. Making a split second decision, we turned off at Smithfield Heights to take the Kennedy Hwy towards Atherton.……Cairns City would have to wait for our return; maybe on a fly-in/fly-out type break and not with a 4wd and camper trailer.

Julie overlooking Cairns, Kennedy Hwy, Queensland, Australia

The Kennedy Hwy took us through Atherton and a nice drive through Herberton and onto Ravernshoe. Lots of winding roads as we made our way along and up and down the Great Dividing Range, though the country quickly changed as we progressed towards Mt Garnet. Once out of the mountainous areas we started to make good time making camp just off the Gulf Developmental Road near Talaroo Hot Springs . Unfortunately the springs have been closed for a few years so we didn’t get to head in for our therapeutic relaxation therapy.

Total distance covered today 640km.

Friday 7^th June, 2013 – Talaroo Hot Springs Turn-off to 10km south of Inverleigh Station, Queensland

Breaking camp early, we continued on the Gulf Developmental Road towards Georgetown.  In the middle of nowhere we came across a large chimney stack, behind this were a large pond, and aptly named Cumberland Chimney Pond.  After a stroll around and a well-deserved coffee we made our way to Croydon.  Croydon is typical of the small outback towns, sleepy and very laidback, but with so much history of days gone by, mainly of the Railway, developed for the gold mining that is all mined out now. This was perfect for a break to stretch our legs and for cold drinks.

Australia (Bush) Bustards, Road to Burketown, Queensland, Australia….good to see their numbers increasing

From Croydon we made our way to Normanton, stopping briefly for a drink and a chat with some of the locals.  From Normanton we progressed on the Burke Developmental Road, passing mainly open plains of natural grazing land. We made our camp that night around 65km west of Normanton and just south of Inverleigh Homestead.

We have never seen so many Kangaroos in one place, and they watched inquisitively as we set up camp.   It was an excellent spot, plenty of wood for the camp fire, sheltered and with many other animals and birds.

Friendly visitors to our bush camp, 10km south of Enverleigh Station…..on the road to McAllister Station, Queensland, Australia

Total distance covered today 427km.

Saturday 8^th June, 2013 –10km south of Inverleigh Station, Queensland to 20km west of Wollogorang Station, Northern Territory

With the usual early start, again watched by the kangaroos, we headed off towards Burketown.    After crossing the picturesque Leichardt River, with the rocks washed smooth, 76kms on we reached Burketown.  In Burketown, the cockatoos are deafening with their screeching as hundreds perch themselves in the half dozen trees in the small park. We decided to have brunch at the local restaurant.   Our next stop was at the local Post Office come general store to stock up on supplies.

Making our way out of Burketown after topping up with diesel we took the Great Top Road (Savannah Way) west passing Doomadgee and Hells Gate Roadhouses. Hells Gate Roadhouse opened again this year after the wet season, after being closed for a few years. The new owners have been working hard to restore the business to it’s former glory and the place is really coming along well with excellent facilities.

Julie at Hells Gate Road House, The Great Top Road, Queensland, Australia

We made our camp that night 20km west of Wollogorang Station, having crossed the border from Queensland into the Northern Territory.

Total distance covered today 403km.

 Sunday 9^th – Monday 10^th June, 2013 –20km west of Wollogorang Station to Roper Hwy, Northern Territory  

After an early start this morning our next stop was Borroloola, Northern Territory, situated on the western side of the Gulf of Carpentaria…..a popular fishing spot.  There were many different species of butterflies flying around and landing very close to where we were sitting.  Some were quite large and the colours were beautiful, but still blended in with their surroundings.

Nature at it’s best. Lots of butterflies at Borroloola, Northern Territory, Australia

Tomato Island (Mumbililla) turn-off, near Roper Bar, Northern Territory, Australia

Boat Ramp at Tomato Island (Mumbililla), near Roper Bar, Northern Territory, Australia

From Borroloola we made our way out of town 30km and turned-off onto the road to Roper Bar, which would take us through the Limmen National Park. We travelled this road in 2010 when the National Park was only proposed. The road condition has improved and there are plenty of creek crossings that are relatively easy to navigate.

We arrived at Tomato Island (Munbililla) and were so surprised by the changes to the campsite, since our last visit in 2010, as it has now been taken over by the National Parks and Wildlife. The improvements that have been made make it an excellent, more comfortable campsite. After a brief look around the boat ramp and facilities we headed onto Roper Bar.

Roper Bar is a favourite destination of ours and we had a picnic lunch at the Roper Bar River crossing before heading off along the Roper Hwy bound for Katherine. We made camp that night just off the Roper Hwy on the Kewulyi to Minerri Road at a spot we used back in 2010. We sat back around the campfire and took in a beautiful sunset discussing the day ahead, planning our time in Katherine.

Bushcamp Sunset, East of Roper Bar, Northern Territory

Greg checking the water levels at Roper Bar Crossing, Northern Territory, Australia…..all good!

Total distance covered over the two days 670km.

Tuesday 11^th June, 2013 – Roper Hwy to Katherine, Northern Territory

Travelling the remaining 110km to the end of the Roper Hwy, we turned north near Mataranka to complete the short distance to Katherine. We were booked into the IBIS Styles (was Four Seasons) Hotel for four days for a little rest and relaxation and to take in a few of the local attractions. We had stayed at this hotel on a number of occasions on past trips and were very much looking forward to our stay.

Total distance covered today 257km.

Thanks for reading our blog and please visit our ‘Photographs’ page for other pics taken along our travels. Comments and questions are always welcome.

All the best,

Greg and Julie

xx

 

Adventure before Dementia  

Leg 4 – Cape York to Cooktown, Queensland

Friday 31^st May, 2013 – Punsand Bay, Cape York to Cooktown, Queensland

Departing Punsand Bay Resort at around 7.00am, we arrived into Bamaga at 8.00am for a top-up of supplies before starting the trek south for Cooktown. This of course included a shortcut via Bamaga Bakery.

Heading south via Umagico and Injinoo, it was only a short stretch of 45km down to the Jardine River crossing. We had been surprised at the lack of tourist traffic to date, though having said that, it’s only early days for the dry season. The expectation of the locals is that the numbers will increase into June and with the start of the Queensland School holidays in around three weeks’ time.

As we approached the Jardine River Crossing, it looked like we had arrived during peak-hour as there were around ten vehicles lined-up waiting patiently for their respective places on the ferry. Our return trip would be included in the original $145.00, which is the cost for a vehicle, trailer and local permits for the area from the traditional land owners. The ferry fee is around $10.00 less without a trailer. Looking down the line of vehicles it was obvious that no one was moving as the ferry operator hadn’t turned-up as yet. It was now 9.30am and the ferry times are 8.00am to 5.00pm, 7 x days per week. We didn’t have long to wait before the operator arrived and the ferry was underway, taking 4-6 vehicles across at a time, dependant if they were towing trailers.

Peak-hour traffic at the Jardine River Crossing, Northern Queensland -Waiting to board the ferry.

From the Jardine Ferry Crossing we followed the Bamaga Road (Northern Bypass Road) and not the Old Telegraph Track. While we would have loved the chance to tackle the Old Telegraph Track, we felt it wasn’t appropriate travelling by ourselves and towing a trailer.

The Bamaga Road south of Jardine River was of course dirt, though in most places very well maintained, with corrugations a rarity. Calling in at Bramwell and Archer River Roadhouses to stretch our legs, we made our camp around 15km’s south of Archer River. It was a good camp, though the rain had followed us down most of the way from the top of Cape York.

Total distance covered 390km

Saturday 1^st June, 2013 – Archer River to Cooktown, Queensland

We were on the road again by 7.00am and as we had left Punsand Bay Resort (Campsite) a day early, our pace was relatively slow and relaxed, averaging around 75-80km/h. Refuelling at Coen (1.74 p/l for diesel), we arrived at Musgrave Roadhouse around lunchtime.

Sleepy town of Coen, Peninsula Development, Queensland

Musgrave Roadhouse, Peninsula Development, Queensland

Stretching the legs – Greg at Musgrave Roadhouse, Peninsula Development, Queensland

Our plan was to turn-off at Musgrave and make our way to Cooktown via the Rinyirru (Lakefield) National Park. That plan turned to disappointment as our enquires at Musgrave about road conditions, confirmed that the road was currently closed due to water levels in creeks. This meant we would have to continue the way we originally travelled-up to the cape, on the Peninsula Development Road. As we were looking forward to seeing a few attractions as we passed through Lakefield National Park, it looked as though we were now two days ahead of our original schedule.

We travelled on a further 140km and after making enquires found we could cut-across from Laura into the bottom part of Lakefield National Park, which was better than travelling on the same road we had already travelled and missing the park altogether.

It was a beautiful drive with numerous creek crossings. We stopped for a cuppa at Little Laura River crossing and dipped our feet in the cool running water. I did the right thing and sent Julie in first to ensure there were no nasties…..and I followed shortly afterwards.

Julie having a paddle, Little Laura River, Laura to Lakeview Road, Northern Queensland

Suitably refreshed by our dip, we continued on passing through the Battle Camp and Audaer Ranges. The Toyota had to work a little as we meandered our way climbing and descending through the ranges making good progress towards Cooktown.

As we left the park, it was late into the afternoon and time to find a suitable bush camp for the night, the heavens opened up as the low clouds tried unsuccessfully to pass over the mountain ranges. We were only around 60kms from Cooktown and made an executive decision to drive through and seek refuge in a warm comfortable motel. While we both love camping, there is nothing worse than trying to cook in the rain and then pack-up everything in the morning which is soaking wet.

After checking-in at the motel and unhooking the camper trailer, it was Pizza for tea, sitting on the balcony nodding our heads in agreement that we had made the right decision. As we looked out into the darkness over Endeavour River and the ranges in the distance, we watched in awe at the lightening show on display……The entertainment over the course of our meal was absolutely free.

Rolling over in bed the following morning, our view took on a completely different perspective, with a clear blue sky and the boats sitting calmly in the water….what a contrast from the previous night.

View from Motel Window of Endeavour River, Cooktown, Queensland

Total distance covered 420km

Many thanks for taking the time to read our blog and feel free to leave your comments or ask questions.

All the best,

Greg and Julie

xx

Adventure before Dementia  

Leg 3 – Karumba to Cape York, Queensland

Friday 24^th May, 2013 – Karumba to 60km north of Koolatah Station, Queensland

Sorry for the delay in posting an update for this leg as the internet connection at the Tip of Cape York was non-existent.

At this point we were a day ahead of schedule according to ‘Plan A’ and decided to leave Karumba a little later, though it was probably more the fact that the Karumba bakery wouldn’t have been open at 6.00am.

Originally we had planned to travel to Kowanyama and Pormpuraaw, situated on the gulf coast, though now we were heading towards Musgrave via the Dunbar, Koolatah, Oriners and New Dixie Road.

Leaving Karumba we headed north for 40km before turning off onto the Burke Development Road, leaving the bitumen to travel the 228km to Dunbar Station. The road was relatively good with only a few corrugations in places. A few kilometres north of Dunbar Homestead we turned-off to head towards Koolatah Station, though our first real challenge for the day lay just ahead to cross the Mitchell River. Having made the necessary ‘local’ enquires we were relatively confident that it would be a safe and expedient crossing. In the past the crossing had claimed vehicles and drivers, though the crossing had recently been upgraded with a concrete causeway.

Approach Track to the Mitchell River crossing near Dunbar Station, Queensland

Mitchell River Crossing (Looking north), Queensland – I think we can!

 

With a successful crossing and our sphincter muscles suitably relaxed and resorted we continued on our way north east.  As you can see by our photos, many parts of the tracks were a challenge to say the least.  Greg was in his element as we proceeded through many creek crossings using 4WD low range, though the crossings were also absolutely beautiful.  Billabongs covered in lilies and colourful birds, including bright green or deep blue budgerigars and different species of cockatoos.  We both felt so very privileged to be part of such a lovely and diverse landscape.

We made our camp around 60km north of Koolatah homestead under a full moon and clear bright sky. This part of the country was ours tonight as we hadn’t seen another vehicle all day.

Bush Camp (Great spot with plenty of wildlife) – Near Mosquito Water Hole, near Oriners, Queensland

Total distance covered today 340km.                         

Saturday 25^th May, 2013 – 60km north of Koolatah to 10km East of Gamboola Station

The morning started well and we broke camp around 7.00am. As we had been progressing the challenges had increased at some of the creek crossings and the amount of washed-out areas of the track. There had obviously been heavy rains some days previous, so we were taking things slow and easy. While the Toyota had been performing admirably, extra care is needed when traveling by yourselves without help or support from anyone else. We arrived at the 8 mile creek and after ‘walking’ the track and crossing decided we could go no further on this road. Parked-up we pulled together a ‘Plan B’, with our only alternative being returning in the direction from whence we came. We had now lost the day gained and would have to about face and return 110km back over the Mitchell River to the Burke Development Road near Dunbar Station.

Show stopper! – Point of turn-around (very very deep, fast flowing and a loose sandy bottom) 8 mile creek, Oriners, Queensland

With our pride a little dented by our defeat, we reached the Burke Development Road around lunch time. The ensuing detour would mean around an extra 900km via Mareeba to get us back on track to Musgrave. The icing on the cake today was a stone thrown-up which smashed the rear window on the tailgate of the Toyota. With our glasses always half full, tomorrow would be a better day.

We camped 10km east of Gamboola Station on the Burke Development Road.

Total distance covered today 292km.

Sunday 26^th and Monday 27^th May, 2013 – 10km east of Gamboola to 35km north of Bramwell Junction

The next two days were spent making a mile to make-up for the time lost due to our detour. Travelling through Chillagoe to Mareeba the country changed dramatically from cattle grazing to sugar cane production along with mountain ranges as part of the Great Dividing Range.

Sugar Cane Crop, Muldiva Crossing – Road to Dimbulah, Queensland

Typical stretch of road, Peninsula Development, Queensland

We did a little shopping in Mareeba, though as it was Sunday when we arrived, the Toyota Dealership was closed…..the replacement rear window would have to wait. As we headed north from Mareeba we travelled through some very picturesque country as we climbed and wound our way through the Great Dividing Range.

North of Laura on the Peninsular Development Road the road once again turned to dirt, though having said that it was in very good condition without any corrugations. The countryside had again turned to cattle grazing country, with Bramer cattle sticking their heads out onto the road at any given moment, not to mention the usual suspects of roos, wallabies and wild pigs playing chicken on the carriageway with us.

It had been a long couple of days to make-up our lost time, though having said that everyday is an adventure and we are loving every minute of our trip.

Total distance covered over the two days was 987km.       

Tuesday 28^th May, 2013 – 35km north of Bramwell Junction to Punsand Bay Resort, Cape York

We were now on the final stretch of reaching the tip of Cape York, with around 200km to go. Reaching the Jardine River Crossing at 10.00am, the crossing by ferry only takes a few minutes and is simply drive-on and drive-off for the Toyota and trailer. The river is simply too deep and fast flowing to be driven….many have tried and failed! A short drive and 45km later we were in Bamaga and a couple more to Seisia, which is situated right on the coast.

Beach at Seisia, Northern Queensland

Scene from the car ferry crossing the Jardine River, Northern Queensland

Boarding the Jardine River Ferry, on the road to Bagama, Queensland

We were impressed with both towns and would have been happy to base ourselves there during our visit to the tip and surroundings, but had made a previous booking to stay at Punsand Bay Resort a further 34km up the track near the tip.

We arrived at Punsand Bay Resort and were met by a lovely lady named Pam. She was very helpful and gave us directions to our onsite tent cabin with ensuite. Basically that is where the good news ends. Unfortunately when you book things over the internet they sometimes aren’t really a true reflection of what you are getting. The tent cabins (not as shown on the website) were $180.00 per night and you basically get a tent with two beds……..nothing else! The tent cabins are erected side by side, with only a few inches between each; absolutely no privacy with your neighbours, with every ‘sound’ being heard. Overall the experience was very disappointing, overpriced and a complete waste of money.

Punsand Bay Resort is situated in such a beautiful location and ‘could be’ the gem of the tip of Cape York. Other than a helicopter, which comes from Seisia anyway, there is absolutely nothing that can/is be organised via the Resort (or should I say campsite). Our advice to perspective travellers to Punsand Bay Resort is to stay in Seisia and take a day trip out to the Tip. There are lots more activities such as fishing, trips to Thursday Island, shopping….all cheaper and better value.   

The final straw for us was when I asked for some drinking water to make tea and coffee (different to the stuff you shower with), I was told that they couldn’t spare any and that I would have to drive 34km back to Bamaga and the roadhouse there would be happy to supply it….We left a day early.

Wednesday 29^th to Thursday 30^th May, 2013 – Tip of Cape York Peninsular, Queensland   

Punsand Bay Resort is only about 6km’s from the tip, though the drive is a real shocker. It was touch and go on a couple of stretches and definitely a 4wd only track. The safer option is to come-up from Seisia and not use the route via the Punsand Bay Resort.

Once you reach the parking area, it’s only a short walk to the actual tip and the most northern point of the Australian continent.

View from the tip of Cape York, Northern Queensland

Tip of Cape York (The most northern point), Queensland Australia

The remainder of the day and Thursday was spent relaxing with a walks along the pristine white beaches and taking in the natural beauty of the area. Sometimes it’s just great to chill and do nothing.

Please take the time to have a look at some of our other pics as posted on our ‘Photographs’ page. In the meantime, stay tuned for our next instalment as we make our way to Cooktown.

Many thanks for taking the time to read our blog and feel free to leave your comments or ask questions.

All the best,

Greg and Julie

xx

  

Adventure before Dementia   

Leg 2 – Alice Springs to Karumba, Queensland

Sunday 19^th May, 2013

It was a lazy day in and around Alice Springs today with a look around the shops and a visit to the local attractions. With the food shopping out the way, we headed over to the Royal Flying Doctors (RFDS) Alice Springs Headquarters to have a look at the service they provide along with a tour of the facility….What an amazing job they do for the people of outback Australia. With Julie in charge of our ‘tour’ of the souvenir shop, it was basically one of everything and a shopping trolley to get everything out to the car. I received a new tea-towel!

Greg and Julie, Alice Springs, Northern Territory, Australia

Later Sunday afternoon, it was time to start loading-up the vehicle ready for an early start in the morning.

Monday 20^th May, 2103 – Alice Springs  

We were up at 4.00am this morning to hit the road nice and early. Being a few minutes ahead of time, we had time to visit Hungry Jacks (Burger King) for a hearty breakfast. Fed and watered, we travelled north 68km on the Stuart Hwy to the Plenty Hwy turnoff. We only spent a few minutes on the Plenty Hwy, a total of 27km, before taking a left turn onto the Sandover Hwy. Don’t be fooled by the term ‘Highway’ as the Sandover is nothing more in places than a dirt track.

First port of call was a fuel top-up and a couple of ice-creams at the Aboriginal Community store at Arlparra. Nice people and very helpful with a report on the road conditions ahead. Vehicular traffic on the Sandover Hwy was very light and the further north east we travelled, the less we encountered. Over the day and half on the Sandover we saw less than half a dozen vehicles.

We discovered a lovely camping spot at Desert Plain Bore, which had plenty of available firewood for cooking Julie’s culinary delights and to boil the billy. There is also our favourite pastime of an evening of sitting around the campfire putting the world to rights and final planning around the day ahead. We weren’t alone tonight, as we had the pleasure of a pack of Dingo’s singing their chorus at dusk. Julie didn’t appreciate me doing my own impressions, which seemed to encourage them to howl even more……….Julie well and truly had the camper door zipped-up tight overnight

Emu Escort at 40mph – Sandover Hwy, Northern Territory

Dawn at our Bush Camp, Desert Plain Bore, Sandover Hwy, Northern Territory

‘No Flies on Greg’ – Bush flies are bad in places such as Desert Plain Bore, Sandover Hwy, Northern Territory

Distance covered today 498kms.

Tuesday 21^st May, 2013 – Desert Plain Bore to Gregory Downs Station

With an early morning call from the Dingo’s intent on giving us an encore of the previous night’s performance, we broke camp at around 6.30am. The country was really changing as we travelled further north-east, entering the Barkly Tableland. Not a tree to be seen off in the distance, just open grass plains.

We travelled around 130km before turning north onto the Austral Downs – Barkly Hwy Road. More open featureless country, though the track itself was in pretty good condition. The track ended as we met the Barkly and the chance to travel a few kilometres on sealed bitumen from the Northern Territory into Queensland and the first town of Camooweal .  Originally we had planned to travel through Camooweal tomorrow, though we were nearly a day ahead of schedule, as there hadn’t been a lot to stop and look at along the Barkly Tableland.

After a brief lunch in Camooweal we left town and travelled a couple of kilometres before turning onto the Burketown Road, which is a dirt road as far as Gregory Downs. The road is in pretty good condition, featureless at first, though this soon changed to dry creek crossings and floodway’s.

All was going well until the right rear tyre started to slowly lose pressure. The Toyota and Camper trailer wheels have Tyredog sensors fitted, which give individual tyre pressures and temperature. Upon examination of the tyre it looked as though we had picked-up a friendly nail along the way. We made camp around 4.30pm, 70km south of Gregory Downs Station, while we had plenty of daylight to see what we were doing to change the wheel.

Total distance covered today 422kms.

Wednesday 22^nd May, 2013 – Gregory Downs Station to Karumba, Queensland

It was a very enjoyable drive through to Burketown and a pleasant change to be cruising along a sealed bitumen road. There was lots of wildlife to see, including dare-devil wallabies and kangaroos, who seem to enjoy playing chicken by running in front of the vehicle, along with very healthy looking Bramer cattle. We had a brunch at Burketown, refuelled and headed towards Karumba at 11.00am.

Welcome to Burketown, Queensland – What a beautiful little town and lovely people

Just outside Burketown it was disappointing and upsetting to see that a vehicle had hit an Olive Python (Liasis olivaceus). They are a gentle creature and sometimes confused with venomous snakes, such as the King Brown  (Pseudechis australis) . There were lots of river/creek crossings between Burketown and Karumba, such as the Leichhardt, Flinders, Byrnoe rivers just to mention a few……great drive.

Greg with lunch….and Julie going hungry and nowhere to be seen! (Olive Python unfortunately killed by a vehicle before we arrived on the scene)

Armstrong River, Burketown to Normanton Road, Queensland

We passed through Normanton without stopping as our final destination for today was Karumba. Upon arrival we had a quick reconnoitre before checking into the End of the Road Motel, Karumba . The motel overlooks the Gulf of Carpentaria and our view out of the Gulf was stunning. We were happy to spend a couple of days in comfort before heading north once again.

We had our dinner at the hotel next door and enjoyed locally caught Barramundi, sitting outside under the stars and overlooking the water……and of course a couple of beers to get rid of that red dust picked up over the past couple of days.

Total distance covered today 486kms.

Thursday 23^rd May, 2013 – Karumba, Queensland

It was nice to be able to sleep in this morning and just do a bit of pottering in and around Karumba. A visit to the local bakery was a great start to the day and chatting with the locals. Julie was doing her bit for the cause by spending time at the motel pool as swimming in the gulf waters is a definite no-no due to saltwater crocodiles.

View from our room, ‘End of the Road Motel’, Gulf of Carpentaria, Karumba, Queensland

This afternoon was a good chance to give the vehicles a good check-over before we set-off first thing in the morning.

Stay tuned for the next instalment as we make our way to the tip of Cape York, Queensland. As always comments and questions are most welcome. Many thanks for taking the time to read our blog.

Total distance covered today 22kms.

Warmest regards,

Greg and Julie

xx

Leg 1 – Perth to Alice Springs

Monday 13^th May, 2013 – Collect Hire Vehicle and Load-up

We headed over to Crikey Camper Hire, Osborne Park first thing on Monday morning to collect the Toyota 200 GX Landcruiser and TL8s Camper Trailer (refer to specification) and were met by Andrew and Fiona to hand-over the keys. We were pleasantly surprised to see that we had been allocated brand new vehicles for our trip and Greg was like a kid in a lolly shop as Andrew went through in detail how all the bells and whistles worked.

I had given Julie the enviable task of being in charge of setting up the camper trailer and she was being very tentative as Fiona talked her through the set-up and best practice.

Greg and Julie collecting the Toyota 200 Series and TL8s Camper Trailer from Fiona and Andrew at Crikey Camper Hire Osborne Park

We returned to Greg’s dad’s place around 11.00am and it was then all hands to the pump to load-up ready for the get-away first thing the next morning. Originally we had planned for Greg’s dad to come away with us for the first leg of the trip, though in the end he decided that on this occasion he would stay in Perth. This decision was a little disappointing for us, though we will be spending quality time with him upon our return to Perth in a few weeks’ time.

Tuesday 14^th May, 2013 – Perth to Sandstone

With all our worldly goods on board for the trip, we left dad’s place at 5.30am, heading east to Dowerin via Toodyay Bakery. We were met at the bakery by Mark and Jason, who assisted us with choosing from their culinary delights….everyone was a winner and there were some tough decisions to be made around the selection process.

Greg with Mark and Jason at Toodyay Bakery – The best in the West!

Suitably stocked we then made our way over to Dowerin to have morning tea with old family friends; Pat and Basil Woods. It’s always lovely to catch-up with them and talk about the good old days.

Morning Tea with family friends Pat and Basil Woods at Dowerin, WA

Suitably fed we departed Dowerin heading for Paynes Find via Koorda and the Maroubra Road. It was a brief stop at Paynes Find to top-up with Diesel and cold drinks. The day had been going really well and we were on track to make camp around 80 kms south of Sandstone. The road to Sandstone is unsealed, though was in excellent condition…..A real pleasure to drive on. There was lots of wildlife to see along the way, including the usual suspects of Wild Goats, Emu’s, Kangaroos and a couple of Dingo’s……..really made us feel at home.

Paynes Find Tavern, Great Northern Hwy, West Australia

Wild Goats playing Chicken, Sandstone, Western Australia

Emu escort along the Mouroubra – Paynes Find Road, West Australia

After making camp in breakaway country it was a good feeling to get the fire going with lots of Mulga wood to burn and keep warm as the nights can be a bit cold. It was a brilliant clear night and made you feel that you could reach up and touch the stars…..and that was before my first beer.Total distance covered 578 kms.

Wednesday 15^th May, 2013 – Sandstone to Laverton

The distance to be covered today was around the same as yesterday so we broke camp early. The stretch from Sandstone to Laverton is sealed bitumen, though we find this not as interesting to the traveller as the dirt roads of the outback.

Our stop at Laverton was brief to refuel, before making camp at Giles Breakaway 46 km east of the town. What a great spot to camp and it was another evening of sitting around a roaring campfire toasting marshmallows. Tonight’s activities included counting the satellites as they passed overhead.

Total distance covered 518 kms.

Thursday 16^th May, 2013 – Laverton to Warbutron

The Great Central Road from Laverton to Warburton is unsealed and in the main protected Aboriginal Land where appropriate permits to travel are required.  Here, there are vast areas where there is little in the way of trees, just a few Mulga trees and beautiful desert oaks.  The ground is covered mainly with spiniflex and grasses; but every so often we would see a flock of either blue or green budgerigars to cheer us along…..and a few camels.

Total distance covered 527 kms.

Friday 17^th May, 2013 – Warburton to Alice Springs   

We had originally planned to travel and stay the night around Yulara and Uluru (Ayers Rock), though decided to venture on to Alice Springs. A little disappointing, though we have seen the ‘rock’ and the ‘Olgars’ (Kata Tjuta) a number of times. It’s all about priorities and we had to be in Alice Springs for Saturday morning business opening hours.

After a long, but enjoyable day we made camp about 80km south of Alice Springs, allowing us to be in town first thing on Saturday morning.

Total distance covered 864 kms.

Wild Camels coming out to say hi. Great Central Road, West Australia

Saturday 18^th May, 2013 – Alice Springs Arriving in Alice Springs bright and early, we completed what we needed to do around lunch time and then booked into the Desert Palms Resort for a couple of days. We will provide an update on our stay in the next blog instalment.

We have provided a few extra pictures on the photographs page, so please take the time to have a look

Keeps safe and warmest regards,

Greg and Julie

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Birmingham to Perth – 6th to 13th May 2013

Hi all,

With all passengers on-board and accounted for, our flight departed Birmingham around 20 minutes early and 6 hours later we were in Dubai. The stopover was only for 3 hours, just enough time for cup of coffee and to pick-up the usual duty free essentials. It was only as we were boarding the Perth bound flight that the penny dropped that all the shopping bags contained Julie’s essentials and I never had any……not even the new Swarovski  Binoculars.

The Dubai to Perth Leg was around 11 hours and while the aircraft and the service was up to the usual excellent Emirates standard, it didn’t really make the trip any shorter. A person can only watch so many movies back to back before you start climbing the walls.

We touched down 20 minutes early at 12.30am Monday morning and there were no surprises at Perth Airport with the turnout of family and supporters. As always Greg’s dad was standing at the arrival gate to meet and greet us as we came through immigration.

This last week has been busy with family engagements and catching-up with old friends. Julie spent a day in Perth City with an old school friend, Roxanne Ashby. The last time they saw each other was 25 years ago…..lots to talk about and catch-up on.

Julie and Roxanne, Perth City, May 2013

The culmination of study for Greg was passing his Recreational Skippers Ticket at Hilary’s Boat Harbour on Saturday. This is the first step in broadening our options for next year; giving us the opportunity to undertake a trip along the eastern seaboard and then extending into the Coral Sea and South Pacific, taking in the destinations of Tonga, Fiji and Vanuatu etc. A big thank-you to Peter Ilott at Aussie Boat Courses for his patience and professionalism.

Last night was our ‘last supper’ at Greg’s cousin Helen’s home with daughter Rebecca and soon to be son-in-law Brett. Helen was her typical ‘hostess with the mostest’ when it came to the spread of delicious food and entertainment. At the end of the meal we were all feeling sorry for ourselves with what was consumed and it was some time before anybody could actually move about without a struggle…..thanks cuz.

With only a couple of days left now before our departure from Perth, we are both busy with final preparations and checks. We will collect the Toyota and Camper Trailer from Crikey Camper Hire on Monday morning and return to Greg’s dad’s home to pack and make ready. If all goes to plan we will depart early Tuesday morning, 14^th May. In keeping with tradition, our first port of call will be Toodyay Bakery to collect our bread, pies and pastries and then have morning tea with family friends Pat and Basil Woods at Dowerin.

Our next Blog update will be at the completion of the trips 1^st leg when we arrive in Alice Springs, Northern Territory on or about 19-20^th May 2013. Unfortunately, both Broadband and telephone are pretty much hit and miss through central Australia.

As always, comments and questions are always welcome.

Warmest regards,

Greg and Julie
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Adventure before Dementia      

UK Departure – 4th May 2013

G’day all,

Blast off!!!…..We are all but ready for the taxi to arrive and take us across to Birmingham Airport Departures. If it’s not packed now, it won’t be coming with us! I don’t think we have done a trip yet where we haven’t left something behind. Anyhow, we can always buy it when we arrive. Having said that, I don’t think Julie will be fooled again by me complaining I’ve left my camera at home and will need to buy a new one duty free in Dubai. That reminds me; I still have time to hide my old binoculars.

We are both looking forward to that feeling of sitting back in that seat when the aircraft takes-off. That feeling we are all familiar with, “if I haven’t remembered to do by now; it doesn’t matter”.

The past few weeks have been a little hectic for us with trying to get everything organised. So much to do, both here and in Australia….lots of e-mails and phone calls in the middle of the night due to the time differences.

We will arrive at the airport nice and early, get checked-in and sit down for a meal before heading through immigration. There may also be a couple of well wishes heading out for a farewell drink with us, which is always a great start to a trip.

It will be a bit thin on the ground in Perth when we arrive in the early hours of Monday morning. I’ve always maintained that you can really tell which members of the family truly love you; by the turn-out at 2.00am….past experience has shown not a lot!

Anyhow, stay tuned for our next instalment after we get settled into Greg’s old home town, beautiful Perth, Western Australia for a few days.

Greg and Julie
xx
Adventure before dementia….

Introduction and Trip Synopsis

Hello all,

Originally from Australia and now living in Nottinghamshire, England, we endeavour returning to Australia for a holiday whenever possible. Our last adventure was in 2012, spending a few weeks travelling the top-end of the country.

We are fortunate enough to be returning to Australia May 4^th, 2013 and will initially be spending a few days in Perth with family, staying with Greg’s father and planning for him to come away with us for the early part of the trip.

Commencing our adventure in Perth we will travel across three states, Western Australia, Northern Territory and Queensland before returning to Perth in July. The trip has been broken down into 9 x Journey Legs that we will be travelling.

I’d like to take this opportunity to invite all our friends from across the globe to again follow and participate in our adventure via our blog. On our 2012 adventure, our blog had thousands of hits, comments and questions from 52 countries.

You can follow us on the Live Tracking and Plan page, which will provide live updates via satellite of our location and progress, together with regular postings of pics on our Photographs page taken along the way.

Please feel free to ask any questions or leave your comments, using the functionality provided by the blog on each of the pages.

Counting down the days now, we will provide further updates on the lead-up to our departure from the UK.

Thanks for your support and interest,

Greg and Julie

x